I had not seen Yan since I left China last March, so it was good to connect with her again. We walked about 20 minutes to a place where we'd eaten once before and had big steaming bowls of noodles in a savory broth with bok choy, mushrooms, pickled cabbage, a bit of roast pork and garnishes of very thin squares of cooked egg, a delicious lunch. Yan told me about her job, new since last fall, working for a Moroccan man who runs an export business here. She is very typical of so many of the young 20-something Chinese who've come to Shenzhen to work. Her business degree and English-speaking ability gives her opportunities that many Chinese don't have, but even so, she works long hours for a comparatively low salary. She's always looking for a better job and will probably leave her current one for something better within a few months.
As I rode home I thought of the online piece I read this week about a young American anthropologist and poet who's re-located in Shenzhen. She said that Shenzhen has attracted many migrant workers from around the country who've basically recreated hundreds of small Chinese villages throughout the city. They're entrepreneurial and hard-working and determined to better their standard of living, but they are still villagers in many respects, very different from the urban Hong Kongers just across the border. I could see and hear those differences as I watched the subway riders in Shenzhen and then those in Hong Kong. It will be interesting to see how one affects the other as they collaborate and meld their city systems: the Chinese plan is to eventually develop one Hong Kong-Shenzhen mega city.
Here's a link that Terry passed along to me today, an Asia Times article about some Hong Kongers' animosity toward mainland Chinese. I have to say that the people I've met on the Hong Kong mass transit system and on the street have generally been very reserved and polite, not at all like the outspokenly critical people in this article. http://www.atimes.com/atimes/China/NB03Ad02.html
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